Most of the arch-top guitars I build now are my arch-top 12 strings, large bodied with 12 frets to the body.  The arch-top sound suits the 12 string particularly well; the rather hard arch-top sound is softened by the pairs of strings but the arch-top punch gives good separation and a clean strong bass.

I have built Martin Simpson a maple bodied mandola and Martin is selling one of his four Sobell guitars to make room for it.  The guitar he’s selling is his African Blackwood and Italian spruce New World, photos to follow on the Available Now page.

I’m leaving it to settle until next week before starting stringing it.

One instrument gone and another available

At the moment I’m unable to update my ‘available now’ page. My computer guru (aka Jason Sobell) is away from his desk this week so it will be a while before this is sorted out.

In the meantime I can announce that Mike Moskal has sold his Model 2 so this is no longer available.

However, there’s now another instrument available. Stewart McIsaac bought a 10 string bouzouki from me in around 1993 (to add to his earlier 8 string). He now wants to sell the 10 string.
He says it is in good condition apart from a couple of very minor dings, and from the photos he sent, this looks to be the case.

Stewart’s contact details are:
Landline 01416494090
mobile 07931721495
email stewart.nadia1@btinternet.com

Maurice’s good idea

Some time ago Maurice Condie asked me to make a D guitar and suggested I build it on my Model 2 body – a really good idea. A 14 fret to the body D guitar has to be based on a 12 fret model, and whereas the MS and NW D guitars I’ve built have been 14 fret bodies adapted to take the 12 fret bridge position, my Model 2 was designed as a 12 fret to the body guitar from the start and needed no modifications.

To my eyes, the proportions work out particularly well, the longer neck balancing the relatively long body. Built with African Black-wood back and sides, a German spruce soundboard and a Wengé neck, it should sound excellent. Both Maurice and I are looking forward to being able to play it.

There are double position dots at the second fret, and standard dot positions from there up. So the octave double dots are only at the octave when a capo is on the second fret, giving standard scale and tunings. I fitted them this way after discussion with Maurice, previous D guitars have had the orthodox dot positions.

Not great photos (especially the one below), but they show the shape and proportions of the guitar. It’s now ready for David and the spray-booth.

Ready for the spray-booth

Very nearly three months after starting work on it, Patrick’s long neck mandolin is ready for Dave and the spray-booth. I will get it back after around a month, when I will make and fit the bridge and can then string the mandolin for the first time.

Shaping the neck

At this point it was time to shape the neck and add the last piece of binding and trim across the heel.
Here the mandolin is strapped to the neck shaping arm, held in place by a strap round the body and a clamp over the head.


Working to the guide lines drawn on the neck, I start by tapering the sides of the neck with a draw-knife. This Cuban mahogany is a pleasure to work, with the wood peeling away from the knife smoothly. Other woods can have interlinked grain so that whichever way you work, the knife digs in and the wood wants to splinter. Wengé in particular is not nice to work with knives and chisels so has to be rasped and sanded.
The neck has now been rasped into five flats, ready to be smoothed into the final shape.
It’s hard to see in this photograph, but it has also been tapered so as to be a little shallower at the head end.


Here the neck has been rounded with a fine rasp and sanded through the grades. I’ve also fitted the binding and trim over the heel.

Next the fingerboard will be leveled and cambered, dots inlaid as required, and then the fingerboard can be fretted.

Completing the body

With the back and sides fully prepared, I now had to fit the soundboard. This was rough carved, then final thicknessed, sanded and braced so as to be ready to be glued onto the sides. But before gluing, it sat on the warm shelf for at least a week so as to settle into its final shape.

As before, I wanted any movement to take place before fitting so as to avoid internal tension as far as possible.

Before fitting the top, I first checked the fit of the top with the sides (which already had the top lining glued in place). Anywhere the fit wasn’t perfect was trimmed until it was.

This tends to involve going round and round, improving one area while making others just a little worse. But eventually the fit is perfect.

Then I spread the glue around the lining and top of the sides and clamp the soundboard in place.

To take the bindings and purflings, I routed L shaped ledges around the top and bottom of the body using a laminate trimmer and different bearings to give the different width cuts needed. I didn’t photograph this procedure, but here is a picture of a guitar ready for routing.

It is clamped in a flat bottomed cradle to keep it level, and moved around the stationary cutter. The cutter can move up and down to accommodate variations in height, but the width of the cut is fixed and determined by whichever bearing is attached to the cutter.

This has to be repeated with a different size bearing for each different width ledge, i.e. once for the binding ledge and again for the purfling ledge.

I next bent the Cuban mahogany binding, the red/green/gold back purfling and the Birdsfoot soundboard trim to shape on the hot pipe bender, and trimmed the ends to mitre in with the purfling down the centre of the back and where the sides meet.

I ran glue around the routed ledges, fitted the purfling and bindings in place, and then taped them tightly. After all these years taping binding still seems a primitive system, but it works well and my attempts to devise an effective alternative have not worked out.

Part of the problem is the stiffness of wooden binding, as it requires a stronger pull to make sure it is properly in place than does more flexible plastic binding.[/one_half_last]
[one_half]When the glue had thoroughly dried I (carefully) removed the tape before scraping down any proud binding and purfling. I then sealed this and sanded it clean.

Now the body is ready to receive the rosette, and then the neck and fingerboard.